From The Gardens

Rock and alpine plants need fast drainage and love to cool their roots against stone. Porous Tufa stones are ideal but hard to find.

English gardeners would often use old stone sinks and livestock troughs as an alternative.  The porous stone of these vessels was perfect for growing difficult little alpine plants.  Obviously, the supply of old stone sinks was limited, so gardeners began looking for other options.

By combining cement, sand and peat moss they were able to create a cheap and flexible substitute called Hypertufa. With it you can make containers and garden ornaments that look as though they are carved out of stone.

Make Your Own Hypertufa Trough

The following will make approximately 10 containers 12” by 13” by 5”, weighing approximately 20lbs each  with walls about 1 ½ “ thick.

Hypertufa Ingredients

• Portland cement – One 94 lb. bag
• Fine textured mason’s sand – One 100 lb. bag (Pearlite or vermiculite may be substituted for sand to make a lighter weight container, although the use of sand gives a more natural stone look)
• Peat moss – @ cu. ft. bale

In addition to the above ingredients, you will need

• Heavy rubber gloves
• Bucket in which you can mix the ingredients
• ½” wooden dowel
• Wire brush
• Molds – such as  plastic tubs of various sizes  and plastic bags for lining the mold
• Concrete coloring (Optional)

Directions

For a texture like sandstone, mix 1 part  cement to 1 ½ part sand to 1 ½ part peat moss.  For a more porous, tufa-like surface, use one part cement, one part sand and two parts peat.   Mix the sand and peat together first, then add the cement, wearing gloves, of course.  Concrete coloring may be added at this time.  When all dry ingredients are blended, add water a little bit at a time, mixing thoroughly each time.  A dry mixture will produce a smooth, stone like surface, a wetter mix somewhat like cottage cheese will produce a more irregular texture.

Fill the bottom of the mold first, pressing in the mixture to 1 ½” thick.  Use the dowel to form 2 or 3 holes for drainage.   A dry mix can be built up around the sides, while a wet mix will probably need an inner mold, also wrapped in plastic.  Place the inner mold on top of the mix in the base and then fill in the spaces between the two molds.  When the mold is filled, cover it with plastic to prevent too rapid drying, and allow it to remain undisturbed for at least 24 hours.

The trough is ready to unwrap when you can press your finger into the surface, but cannot scratch the surface with your fingernail.  At this time, marks may be made with a wire brush to “distress” or roughen the surface.   When you are satisfied with the look, place the container out of direct sun and cover it with plastic where it can cure for a couple of weeks.   Hose it down well, let dry and your trough is ready to plant.